Ben's Travel Adventures

Vigilance on the Travel Trails

A person traveling with me tells me that I am the most vigilant traveler she’s traveled with in terms of security precautions, preemptive battles against scams, etc.

Other than a passport issue in Switzerland four years ago but besides that nothing bad has happened to me. Never been robbed or mugged and nothing’s been stolen from a hotel room (even though I always hide my stuff under mattresses etc especially in lower end hotels).

I’m not sure whether this actually makes me MORE vigilant. Perhaps if something like this happened, I’d realize its big picture insignificance. Until then, it’s an “unknown.”

Either way, I think I have an optimal amount of vigilance – I do venture into dangerous hoods, countries, etc. just always try to be safe…

Hunger and Bathroom Needs

I’ve gone TEN hours with no food. I’ve gone entire days with just a sandwich and a cliff bar.

I’ve gone hours having to go to the bathroom and not being able to.

International travel – where you don’t have access to a kitchen, don’t know where the clean bathrooms are, don’t know where the cheap/quick food options are (e.g. a Subway equivalent) – builds these capacities pretty well.

Language Thoughts

- "Ideas" is one of the hardest words for non-native speakers to pronounce. Especially in French but in all European languages.

- "Make" as a verb is overused by non-native speakers. For example, "let's make a picture" instead of "let's take a picture." I assume it's like me using tener as a catch-all verb in Spanish.

- I like how the Brits say "indeed" as a superlative. E.g., "Thank you very much indeed for that speech."

- I remain fascinated by how non-natives have a very hard time selecting "this" or "that" - they select but it's usually not the right one. Grammatically makes no difference but how it sounds to the ear.... For example, "The boys were being very rude at the show by yelling out at the audience. I can't believe they acted like this." The last word should be "that" -- at least this sounds best to my ear.

Quote of the Day

"From our hours spent in airports we know that most Americans, when presented with large chunks of free time and removed from demanding home entertainment systems, will still find almost any excuse -- a cell phone, a laptop, another bag of chips -- not to pick up a book. To travel is to be continually reminded of the growing homelessness of the written word." - Thomas Swick

Stamps in Passports

It's always fun to look through your passport and see the stamps from various airports. And to look at your friends' passports and see where they've been.

But there seems to be no practical value to the stamps. All airports now scan your passport and the whole system is computerized. I've never seen a border official actually look at my stamps.

I suspect it's tradition at this point.

Just as reading long letters of famous historical figures is good fun but will not be an option for future generations reading about us, I suspect stamps in passports will be a thing of the past soon enough as well....

Native English Speakers Don't Say "Clever" Much

Always interesting to hear and analyze how non-natives speak the English language. What's difficult? What do they mess up?

One random observation: the word "clever." Most fluent English speakers I know don't use the word "clever" very often, certainly not as a catch-all compliment for intelligence or savviness. If anything, "clever" can have a slightly negative connotation -- like sneaky. Yet many folks in Latin America use "clever" very often and in broad contexts.

Second random observation: "this" and "that." Neither is technically grammatically better than the other, but you can hear it when it doesn't sound right.

Taxi Hounds at Third World Airports

Here's a little thing third world countries could do which would vastly improve the travel experience for foreigners: create a formal taxi line and enforce it.

In every poor country I've been to the airport scene is always the same. You land, go through customs, and then take one step outside and are hounded by taxi drivers. Some legal, some illegal, all shouting "taxi! taxi! taxi!".

The most frustrating experience I've had was in Dalian, China. There the illegal taxis swarm and won't leave you. I had to physically push one guy away and he nonetheless kept following my every step trying to get me to hire him.

In Liberia, Costa Rica, you step out of the airport and before you know it you're inundated by "taxi! taxi!". When I waited to pick Laura up at the airport, I watched dozens of passengers exit the airport. Each time, without exception, they walk out with a smile on their face, and within seconds, at seeing the mob scene of taxi drivers, their smile turns to deer-in-headlights or general fear / nervousness.

Why would you want that to be the first impression visitors have of your country?

Travel Doctors are a Scam

I've never been to one, but I now know two people who went to American travel doctors before going to Latin America. Of course they give you every medicine they can think of and tell you to avoid everything and anything once in the region.

A particularly amusing fun fact was the travel doctor a friend visited before coming to Costa Rica had only been abroad once in her life, to London!

My approach is to follow the CDC / State Dept recommendations on malaria, avoid tap water, and be smart about other types of food. Get your shots, etc. But do your own research and take action that will keep you healthy and make you less nervous (sometimes people say you don't need to take malaria medicine in certain places like Guanacaste in Costa Rica -- but I'd rather assuage any nervousness when I get molested by mosquitoes which inevitably happens).

Just don't outsource this process to a "travel doctor"!

People Making Out in Public

In Europe, since people live at home with their parents till later in life, there's many more people making out / kissing in public. Ie, they don't want to go back home, so they do it in public.

When You Can't Understand Someone

Who's speaking a foreign language, and it's an inconsequential interaction (like at a street-corner) your first task is to determine whether they uttered a statement or question. If a statement, you can just smile and nod. If a question, you have to come up with a reply!

How Non-Native English Speakers Respond to "Thank You"

They almost never say "You're welcome."

I usually got:

"Don't worry"

"It's ok"

"Oh, thanks"

I suppose "no worries" is the more natural expression for "don't worry" but still, "you're welcome" is the best response to "thank you."

What Does it Mean to "Go Shopping" When Traveling?

For the life of me I can't understand what people mean when they "go shopping" while traveling.

In Beijing I heard a middle-aged American guy talk on the phone to another buddy who was in Beijing: "I did some shopping this afternoon....yeah tomorrow we can review the board presentation and then do some more shopping."

Guidebooks have recommendations for "shopping" and my hosts often point me to "good shopping areas."

What on earth are they shopping for? Even though I haven't bought a single souvenir anywhere, I do understand people like physical keepsakes from countries they visit. Fine. But what else? Clothes? Toys? How do you have room for these new goods? The "best" shopping countries like Japan and Hong Kong are also more expensive than the States, so why mess around in a foreign currency? And in cheap places like India or China, it's likely a fake.

Anything I would want to buy I could buy from home, either at a store or online.

Maybe it's supposed to be an "activity" -- they don't really buy anything, but it's part of the social experience. If this is the case, I can only think back to what George Castanza said to Jerry Seinfeld while lying in the hospital bed, "Kill me Jerry, kill me now."

Supporting the San Francisco / California Brand Abroad

In Munich there's the "San Francisco Coffee Company".

In Hong Kong there's "San Francisco Steakhouse".

In Mumbai there's "San Francisco Jean Company".

Almost everywhere there's California something -- California Fitness, California Style, The California Hotel, whatever.

Let's face it: San Francisco and California are luxury brands that make millions around the world yearn for The Good Life.

WTF is a "Smart Restuarant"?

Since June I've been reading way too many guidebooks.

One of the things which always amuses / annoys me is how travel guidebooks need to keep inventing new adjectives. For example, "Nestled behind the Great Gate are a bunch of smart restaurants that make for a good pit stop."

I have no idea what a smart restaurant is. Well placed? Well lit? English speaking staff?

The quest for meaningful adjectives plagues everyone from Lonely Planet to food describers to the average Joe trying to write a paper. This reminds me of my old post on all the ways a premium cheese company describes cheese ("subtly earthy" or "pungent" or "complex").

Here's a writing hack to jump start your descriptions: take an adjective, make it an adverb, and then combine it w/ the target word. "Startlingly cute", for example.

Be American Goddamnit!

When you go somewhere you may think it's you who's supposed to get the cultural experience, but what happens is the locals (rightfully) treat it a two way street. This is why I've posted earlier that it's sometimes advantageous to speak English to a local because they want to practice.

In Asia, more than Europe, I've had people tell me, not in so many words, "Be American Goddamnit!" Drink Coke. Go eat at McDonald's. Be a giant. They have their own stereotypes and perceptions and they want to see me fulfill them, or at least address them. Or they think what I want more than anything is all the stereotypical American stuff.

On the other hand, as an American overseas, you're trying to assimilate the local culture and in many ways leave behind those traditionally American mores. But by doing this you're depriving the locals of very Americanness they want to see (maybe for sheer amusement!).

Interesting tension.

A Few Hours in Bangkok

I spent a few hours in the Bangkok airport and thus accomplished one of the most important parts of traveling which is being able to tell someone you've been to a certain country. Yeah, I've been to Thailand. Cool place.

Quick thoughts:

• As you taxi on the runway you see signs which say "Long Live the King". Tons of signs with that phrase and a picture of the general. I can only assume it's the general who led the recent coup. What a lovely poster for visitors to see over and over.
• Thai Airways gave a flower to each woman on the flight. Can somebody say s-e-x-i-s-m? :-)
• Saw a sign for a "Muslim Prayer Room" in the airport. I knew I had arrived in SE Asia.
• As we waited in line to board the flight to Mumbai, I found myself standing next to an American lady. After we both observed the chaos which substitutes for a queue, she remarked, "Do you think it's asking too much for people to form a line?" I responded that in China, at least, queuing is far inferior to the mob approach.
• Thailand definitely seems like the hot tourist destination for rich western tourists who want beaches and a little exotic spirit.

Switching Languages Mid Sentence

I observed something really interesting involving language the other day in Shanghai. My friend was speaking with his friend in Hong Kong and he spoke sometimes in Cantonese, sometimes Mandarin, sometimes English.

"Hello" and "Goodbye" were in English.

Blah blah blah blah

"Is everything ok?"

Blah blah blah

"Ok, keep me posted"

"Bye"

I asked my friend why "Is everything ok?" was said in English and not Chinese. At first he said he didn't know, he just switches based on whatever phrase comes to mind when he's talking to a multi-lingual person. Then, after a bit of thought, he said, "We don't have a good phrase for 'Is everything ok?' in Chinese. In English, you can say it casually and not offend or sound intimidating. It's a nice phrase. So I used it."

What a luxury! I did that with Spanish, too, when I was using it more. When taking notes in class, if there was a Spanish equivalent that was shorter I'd use it instead of English (e.g. "entre" instead of "between" or "sin" instead of "without").

The Battle for Armrests on the Plane

Many parts of flying are predictable for me. The exit row seat. The fight to not check my bag. I was reminded this afternoon on my flight to Beijing of another classic battle: the armrest.

Suppose there are four armrests and three seats.

Three key factors:

1. Are you the first to sit down? If you sit first you will have first mover advantage.

2. Are you in the middle seat? This can either screw you or help you. In a best case scenario you get both arm rests, but this is rare. You will probably end up with one, or if you're submissive, get none. All in all the middle seat is risky -- unlike the window and aisle, you are guaranteed nothing.

3. How physically intimidating are you? Let's face it: this makes a difference. On my flight to Dalian I had aisle seat and old Chinese woman in the middle. I got the armrest to the aisle plus the one on my other side, that technically she could have fought for. On my flight to Beijing a spry 20-something secured his armrest early and I only mustered about 20% of the armrest when he reached up to turn on his light.

It's a jungle out there.

How to Dominate a Buffett Line: Use Your Fingers

I hit the buffet line in restaurants as hard as I hit the boards in basketball.

When I'm overseas and food is scarce (not many snacks) I always enjoy a good buffet. Fortunately the breakfasts provided by the hotels so far have provided buffet breakfasts.

One trick of the trade for dominating buffet lines: use your fingers. I have no idea why people feel like they must use those prongs or forks to grab food from each of the fifty different plates. It would take hours if you used a prong for each bin of food.

So this morning, as a nice Japanese woman pondered the overwhelming array of bread choices, I swooped in from the right side, plucked one of the pieces of bread without touching any other piece, and before she turned her head I had already piled eggs on my plate from a different counter.

Be covert, but never forget that Champions Find a Way.

On Being in the Center of Action

I'm really close to North Korea. In a few days, in Dalian, I'll be even closer, and could even hop up to the next town and take a boat right next to the North Korea border (the closest in the world any American could get).

India borders Pakistan. Also close to Afghanistan. This is where real shit goes down.

There's something at once exhilarating and nerve racking about being in the center of the world's action.

I'm happy I'm here, and I'll be happy when I leave safely!

Big Picture Observations, Random Notes, and Travel Tips on Two Months in Europe

Big picture observations

1. America and Europe are more similar than different. The media likes to play up transatlantic rifts. Our similarities are so intense that any cultural contrasts become even more interesting.

2. Immense history in Europe. I saw countless buildings older than the age of my country.

3. Reform is critical to Europe's long term relevance

4. No anti-Americanism from the locals against me. This is a myth invented by people who don't travel.

5. A lot of really impressive people. Talent is indeed spread around.

Travel tips

1. Travel clothes do work -- dry quicker, absort moisture. They're not a rip-off.

2. A notebook and pen -- I had no idea how critical this would be

3. Wi-fi locator keychain -- good investment; didn't have to take out laptop all the time

4. Save on airfare, splurge on other things -- Ok, 30 hour flight to Ireland. In the end it was worth the $200 savings.

5. Simply can not eat food at major tourist destinations. Always find a back road or a residential hood.

6. Money belt -- Mine was too small, so I didn't use it regularly. I put key documents in a cargo pocket in my shorts that zipped closed with an extra velcro seal on top.

7. Buy water bottles at supermarkets and don't expect many free fountains

8. Go to tourist sites. There's a reason everyone goes to them. Just buy tickets in advance or get the timing right.

9. Manage photos on the road. I have over 700 photos and over 40 videos. Throughout the trip I uploaded to my computer, labeled, organized, etc. Upon my return I spent 30 minutes, organized into a slideshow, and burned CDs for people. Really easy.

10. Backup your computer on your iPod. Peace of mind.

Random notes

1. Europeans seemed skeptical of the need for such an intense response from Israel against Lebanon

2. Staying with locals gives about a 20x cultural experience than staying at a hotel, but it can also be constraining. I think it's worth it.

3. It's interesting how true certain stereotypes turned out to be. Italian drivers or hand gestures, Irish accent, British political debates, and so forth.

Foreigners Want to Speak English To You

English is the lingua franca. It's hard to come across someone in Europe who doesn't speak English. I've found that many of them like practicing their English. I had a few conversations where it was apparent the other person just wanted to speak English to me so talked and talked and talked.

Speaking their language is still preferred, but only if you're basically fluent.

In most other cases, throw away the phrase books and speak slowly. If you want to build a good relationship, let them practice their English!

Some Cities Are Nice to Visit, Some Are Nice to Live In, Sometimes They're the Same

That's a big insight from my trip. Paris is a great place to visit. I wouldn't want to live there. New York is a great place to visit. I probably wouldn't want to live there. Seattle, Portland, and Denver/Boulder are great places to live, I hear, but probably aren't at the top of any tourist list. Of course, I think San Francisco is a great place to live AND visit, but I'm biased.

The Moroccan Immigrants Hawking Fake Gucci

They're everywhere in Europe. 10-15 black guys on a random sidewalk with various fake Gucci, Prada, and other brands I know nothing about. It's shocking people would stop and buy what is so obviously fake and so obviously low quality.

The funniest relationship isn't between these street vendors and their delusional patrons, but the vendors and the police. Without a license, the vendors are always on the run. The cops care enough to scare them but not arrest them. So every so often you'll see a parade of black guys -- I'm told from Morocco -- running across a street holding their huge cardboard stands before settling down on some new sidewalk.

Quotes of the Day About Money and Water

"Part of me doesn't even want to go to dinner tonight, so then I'll be 7 fucking euros up on you." - My traveling companion in Spain and Portugal. We are keeping track of the money we're spending. Frugality is in.

"You are absolutely insane. You are totally insane." - My traveling companion after I said I would charge him for drinking half my water bottle. Yes, I'm insane. I need water. What can I say?

Beggars in Europe

1. I've seen a lot of deformed people lying on the street asking for money. Feet which are totally turned around, severed limbs, six fingers. Gruesome stuff. I wonder if it's all real. I haven't seen this as much in SF.

2. At meals. I've been approached several times while eating outdoors. It's a smart tactic -- during a meal you know you're spending money and thus should have something to give to the beggar (as opposed to just walking down the street). The beggars here are much more tenacious than in the States, I've found.

As a matter of principle, I never give to beggars on the street, preferring to donate my charity dollar to organizations.

Caught Redhanded With the Tribune

Traveling with somebody else leaves me uncomfortably vulnerable to candid photographs. Austin caught me engrossed in the International Herald Tribune. Unlike many of my technology friends, I still like the paper in print.

Trying to Find Large Portions of Anything

They say in America everything is so big. Meals, people, houses.

Well in Europe I've found things actually are small relative to what I'm used to. In some places this is good. Small little curvy streets with cobblestones and low doorways are cute and much prettier than the cookie cutter housing establishments in the States. But when it comes to my gastronomic needs, I find things woefully inadequate.

At three dinners in Europe so far I've told the waiter my order and she responds, "Wow, are you hungry?" Upon receiving the meal I've found it to be about just right. I'm always seeming to have to order a starter or two and one or two main entres.

Today Austin and I hunted for a big water bottle. Not these little 1/4 liter bullshit bottles, but real, 1 or 2 liter bottles. We looked and looked and looked. Nothing. Suddenly we spotted a girl with a big bottle, asked her where she purchased the conveted good, and, following her directions, made our way to that shop in this mall. We looked and looked. Nothing. We asked a Spanish woman working at a store. She pointed to a place across the hall that sold big water bottles. The store had only small water bottles on display. We asked her, in Spanish, whether she had bottles GRANDE. She went to the back of her shop and finally pulled out the jewels (see pic). Why the hell aren't they on display? Who knows.

Later, at Park Guell, the climate and environment felt like the middle of an African desert. We were roasting. Finding free water is considerably more difficult in hot tourist spots since there are vendors a plenty looking to sell you the overexpensive bullshit bottles. Austin and I resolved not to patronage such an affront against our human rights to water. We searched for a fountain, which has appeared throughout Spain on various streets. No luck. Before, I would have merely said "Woe is me" and collapse on a bench from heat stroke. Now, I have a new strategy which is absolutely killer: identify tourists walking around who have a *big* bottle (ie one they couldn't have just bought) and ask them where they re-filled it. I did it in the park and the man directed me to a free fountain 3 minutes away. It was so out-of-the-way I had to ask two natives ("Hay agua libre...") to make sure I was headed the right way.

Summation: Meals are smaller in Europe. That's probably why they don't have an obesity problem. If you're an American who's not obese, however, be prepared to order more food than usual. On the water front, try asking others where they filled up the bottles.

Any Tips on Dealing with the Heat?

Folks, it's hot out here. Not good hot, bad hot. I can't put on a t-shirt without sweating through it within 30 minutes. Here are some ways I'm dealing:

• Travel shirt -- this is a special kind of shirt that dries quickly and breathes well. Alas, I only have one right now.
• Gelato ice cream -- eating a lot of this in Italy
• Water -- it's so expensive here that I'm trying to utilize my sink as best I can, but it's tough
• Wash cloth -- I keep a damp wash cloth next to me when I use the computer or sit and read since it can cool me and wipe sweat from forehead
• Sandals -- I've worn sandals the entire trip.
• Umbrella -- I've seen other people do this, so I'm going to start. Pop up umbrella when in direct sunlight.
• Baseball hat -- This keeps the glare off my eyes but makes my head hotter.

Any other tips from past or present road warriors?

Only Americans Are (Trying) To Have Dinner at 6:45 PM

I showed up a ristorante in Rome the other night to try to get dinner and hit the sack early. It was 6:45 PM. The place didn't open for dinner until 7:30.

I was talking to some folks from Cincinnati on the bus today and they said they were able to find a restaurant that served dinner at a "normal" time and it was all Americans.

The siesta concept makes sense to avoid the heat...but it's still a change to now schedule a 3:45 ish meal to hold me over from noon to 8 PM.

A Map With Squares Is Better Than a Map With Circles

American maps are so easy, foreigners say.

Now I know why. Most of our streets are organized in squares. You walk along one street all the way and eventually you'll hit what you're looking for.

In many European countries I've found circles. Walk straight and then "through" the circle (even though the circle juts out in four different directions).

Italy and Switzerland Have Water

For water lovers looking for h2o friendly countries, Switzerland and Italy are good bets. Both have fountains aplenty. By the way, I'm not unshamefully bringing my water bottle into restaurants. I simply can't go broke on ordering 2 euro water each time I eat. Besides, in Italy they put bread on the table and you're automatically charged for it whether or not you eat it.

How Should An American Overseas Celebrate 4th of July?

If I had time, I would go to the Sam's Store in Florence which specializes in goods for American expats and buy a nice big jar of peanut butter. Yes, peanut butter my friends is in short supply out here in Europe.

Can't a Man Do Some Pushups Without Funny Looks?

I went for a run today in Dresden, Germany along its stunning main river. Since I haven't yet splurged and followed Chris Sacca's or Rob Urstein's advice, I was left to a simple run with an iPod and then the obligatory 40 pushups 3/4 of the way into the run.

For the push-ups I stopped along the side of the path, walked onto this platform type of thing, and dropped down and pounded out the bad-boys. One woman gave me a funny look, and briskly walked away from the platform where she was standing (even though it could easily hold several people). What? Can a man not give his chest a little attention it so badly deserves?

To answer this question, I must consult my trusted advisor and life guard Andy McKenzie. Andy, should I cower in embarrassment when doing push-ups in a semi-public setting? Or should I embrace a passion for the pectoral muscle group with the same gusto I pursue ping-pong, eating cottage cheese, and devouring pesto pizza?

Comments of the Day

I got two comments on my blog yesterday that I wanted to highlight.

First, on my post on my main blog titled People Are Generally Good, Paul Roales asks:

So does this mean you are going to stop stressing out about your passport as if it was the nuclear launch codes?

Indeed, Paul, indeed.

Second, on my post on my main blog titled Europe's Assault on h2o, Kevin Wang comments that he experienced something similar when he was in Europe so did some research and came up with some interesting data that may explain my predicament.

Thanks guys.